flesh and bone

how to paint bones, skulls and flesh

Extremely versatile, painting-focused course for your flesh and bone needs. We propose a copious amount of recipes ranging from fast and easy to more advanced.
Human and creature flesh, bones and skulls sometimes can be daunting, but thanks to oils and enamels we can achieve far better results that give us some precious mottling, visual variety, and surface finish variation.
If you want to step up your game, and go beyond base coat and wash, this course will take the fear away from you when dealing with any bone and flesh (dead or alive!).

Curriculum

  • Episode 1 – Skulls
  • Episode 2 – Dead Flesh
  • Episode 3 – Fast and Easy Creature Flesh
  • Episode 4 – Mottled, Translucent, Veiny Flesh
  • Episode 5 – Four-step African Flesh
  • Episode 6 – Realistic Animal hides
  • Episode 7 – Light Flesh and Hair/Beard
  • Episode 8 – Glazing Flesh
  • Episode 9 – General Flesh Application
  • Episode 10 – Finishing Flesh Application

19 thoughts on "How to Paint: Flesh and Bone"

  1. lee.jim says:

    Can you scale this up? I’m painting a skull that is about 5 inches across as part of scenery for a swamp.
    Cheers
    Jim

    1. Zatcaskagoon Miniatures says:

      If you are asking if the technique would work on a larger scale, then I don’t see why not.

  2. goltz.jonas says:

    What’s the idea behind having the first oil layer before the speckling? Instead of just doing the speckling straight and going in with oils after that?

    1. Zatcaskagoon Miniatures says:

      The build up of translucency is achieved through multiple layers. The initial layers or the base skin tone are all oil painted transitions.

  3. Fredererick Zuberer says:

    Is there an alternative technique for the spray of the flesh wash at the beginning for those who don’t have an airbrush yet?

  4. Dimitrije says:

    Nice guide, I would like to see you painting Ossiarch Bonereapers army.

    1. Zatcaskagoon Miniatures says:

      Thank you! Yes those are awesome models and could be something I will paint in the future.

  5. tom_havranek says:

    Which Brand is the Leather Brown that you start the Animal Flesh video with?

    1. Zatcaskagoon Miniatures says:

      Vallejo

  6. tom_havranek says:

    Which Flesh video is the one used before the Translucent flesh video?

    1. Zatcaskagoon Miniatures says:

      The one where I paint the tyranid arm.

      1. Luke Spencer says:

        I was wondering this too, is there a separate series where this Tyranid arm was painted before the translucent flesh tutorial? The mottled translucent and veiny flesh video is the one where you paint the Tyranid arm but at the start it was mentioned that getting it up to that point was using the same recipe from the previous video. The one before was the fast easy flesh on the orc mount (vid 3) but the Tyranid arm in vid 4 looks more pale in comparison. Not sure if it is my eyes though and perhaps just lighting. Just looking to try to recreate that pale look on the Tyranid arm to bring out the veins on the new flesh eaters 🙂

      2. Zatcaskagoon Miniatures says:

        I believe it’s episode one or two of the flesh series. Where I paint the Kruelboyz leader. That is the foundation I start with on the tyranid arm.

  7. Luke Ellis-Bowyer says:

    You replied to this comment.

    1. Zatcaskagoon Miniatures says:

      None if wet blending, but if you are wanting oil layers to dry then give it 24-48 hours to fully cure.

    2. Zatcaskagoon Miniatures says:

      Moments if blending. 48 hours if I need it to be dry.

  8. Benfield Hicks says:

    With the VI line and a lot of us ending up here following the launch of those products, a series like this with ‘how you would do it differently’ now that you have access to those products would be DOPE

  9. johnbroncos88 says:

    Hey fantastic tutorials, I can’t wait to get practicing. I’m new to this approach of painting and am working my way through the techniques. Iv just received the first wave of the villainy inks and was just wondering if they would replace some of the acrylic wash stages in the older tutorials, such as using Goons Grime to replace Agrax Earthshade etc?

    Also is the super heavy application of Gloss varnish an earlier form of the Super glue method? Or an entirely different technique all together?

    1. Zatcaskagoon Miniatures says:

      If there are a lot of oils or other enamels present, no. We stick to acrylic wash. Yeah, the gloss application was basically the glue technique. However, you can’t gwt glue to Crack like you can varnish when you apply it really heavy and then blow dry it.

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